Quote:
Originally Posted by RHWeiner
Even though I've had my 20D for over a year and a half...and shoot RAW only...I'm still confused by all the possible settings given that RAW is supposed to *not* be affected by them. Your explanation regarding the image viewed on the back of the camera is a JPG and settings for that will give a good indication of what the RAW will be like (straight out of the convertor). Does this mean that I can set the JPG image to monochrome if it is my intention on translating the RAWs into Monochrome (ie. Art Nude)?
The other thing I don't understand is the need to set a CWB if the RAW convertor allows you to tweak or drastically change the resulting WB in the computer.
What I find is that Canon does not clarify what settings/dials/knobs are needed for 'out of the camera JPGs' and what is not needed for RAW.
A side discussion (which I'll probably strip off into it's own thread)...
Would you be interested in a Manual Digital camera, enough to actually buy it? Given that we here at G1 probably only ever use the Aperture of Shutter Speed modes, all those others (Landscape, Portrait, P, and green "Idiot Mode") are never or hardly ever used. So why not strip these out and give us a High End Manual mode digital camera at a lower price? Just a thought.
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Here is what happens when you are shooting RAW and you press the shutter release button to take a photo:
1. The camera collects all the data it can for the given fstop and shutterspeed that you have set the camera to (or that gets automatically set by the camera). This includes any exposure compensation that you have added to the mix.
2. The data in step #1 is saved in an internal memory buffer.
3. The computer in the camera creates a separate JPG file of about 1500x1000 in another area of the buffer. It creates this JPG file using all of the parameters you've set for the camera and the current WB. It displays this JPG on the LCD. This means that if you want a fairly accurate LCD Preview, you must set the parameters and white balance to something reasonable. Also you want the brightness of the LCD set to about 1 stop above the lowest setting.
4. Camera now combines the JPG image with the RAW data and the metadata (which includes all of your parameter settings and WB) and writes it all out to the memory card.
Let's assume you don't bother to set the white balance and it is currently set to 1000K. The images on the LCD will look terrible. But since you are shooting RAW, you'll be able to select the correct WB in the RAW converter during post processing. But wouldn't you rather have a good preview to see if you're close to what you wanted for the scene? The same is true of sharpness and contrast and saturation settings. If you do a good job of setting these, then you'll get a much better preview.
When you load the image into the RAW converter it will then show the intial preview based on its own default settings or custom settings that you have made to the converter (it does not use most of the metadata for this, in other words).
Cheers,
rfs
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