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achieving the correct exposure
Old 05-24-2006, 08:57 PM   #1 (permalink)
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can someone explain to me how to achieve the correct exposure when my light meter and my camera shutter speeds do not match up? i.e. the recommended shutter speed is 1/64 and the closest increment on my camera is 1/60. what am i missing?
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Re: achieving the correct exposure
Old 05-24-2006, 09:14 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clavo
can someone explain to me how to achieve the correct exposure when my light meter and my camera shutter speeds do not match up? i.e. the recommended shutter speed is 1/64 and the closest increment on my camera is 1/60. what am i missing?
For all practical matters, there is no difference between a shutter speed of 1/60th and 1/64th of a second. Use what you got and don't worry about the difference.
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Re: achieving the correct exposure
Old 05-25-2006, 08:28 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by n5wd
For all practical matters, there is no difference between a shutter speed of 1/60th and 1/64th of a second. Use what you got and don't worry about the difference.
To add to what Wayne said, you could bracket a third or half stop either side of it and use your judgement on which works out to the best exposure for your purpose.
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Re: achieving the correct exposure
Old 05-25-2006, 07:51 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clavo
can someone explain to me how to achieve the correct exposure when my light meter and my camera shutter speeds do not match up? i.e. the recommended shutter speed is 1/64 and the closest increment on my camera is 1/60. what am i missing?
Well, there is not enough difference between 1/64the and 1/60th to make a difference.

But, if you're shooting digital you can double check your exposure using the camera's histogram. Shoot a photo of a black/gray/white card that fills the camera's view finder (in the light you want to shoot your subject in). You should get three full spikes. If one spike is missing or partially off the edge, then the exposure is off and you'll be clipping the highlights or shadows. Adjust exposure and shoot again until you get the three full spikes as far to the right of the histogram as you can.

Here is an example photo of a target and what the histogram should look like.



The model is Dee. The test shots would cover the area that I've shown in rectangle and the view of the histogram is what you'd see in the Camera's LCD.

I also use the above technique to calibrate my external light meter. I've found that the camera meter and the external meter rarely see eye to eye.

Cheers,
rfs
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