POOR flash shots

[ChipBulgin]

As Wayne (n5wd) mentioned, it's hard to evaluate your situation without an image or a clearer indication of what you mean by "poor". If your problem is basic exposure (too light or too dark) then definately consider a flash meter. It's hard to start figuring out what's going on if you can't measure your exposure. Now, if you're unhappy with the way your subject is lit, your problems lie more in the positioning and modification of your light sources.

I'll assume from your post that you've got basic exposure issues. I'll also assume that you're shooting in manual mode and that your shutter is set to (or below) your camera's sync speed. A meter will definately help you, and you don't need to spend $500. If you want a meter that will do just about everything you'll ever want one for, get a Sekonic L358. It will last you a lifetime. You can find one for about $225. If you want to keep the cost below $200, then I'd recommend a Sekonic L308. Personal experience has led me to conclude that it is a much more accurate, durable, and feature-rich meter than the Polaris.

-Chip

[Al_Nowak]

Yes, you can shoot and then chimp the shot and maybe get close to being satisfied with the lighting. But if you want consistent results...

Go buy the Polaris meter. It's what, $170 bucks. It'll save you that in frustration on the first shoot.

Just my opinion...

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Wow,.... when I saw the subject line, I was thinking it must be a Canon.. Go figure.. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smirk.gif[/img]

But,...apparently the Nikon flash isn't soooo ooooo ooooo perfect after all eh? LOL


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He's not shooting TTL. He's using 3 JTL strobes and triggering them with a hot-shoe to PC-cord adapter. Also, he doesn't seem to be using a meter. I don't think the Nikon flash has anything to do with it.

-Chip

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Aaaah... ok... never mind... [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif[/img]

JP

[Qikshots]

ok, this is too much like filling a tire with a hole in it,its getting me nowhere to slowly,so I ordered the L358,but heres a sample of the poor image,which is in part from incorrect light placement,among other things.(ASA 200/125 web page

[ChipBulgin]

I looked at your images. They seem to be overexposed and lack contrast. Here's something to try while you wait for your meter to arrive. You will need a tape measure or 10' piece of string.

Find the guide number for your lights. That information should be in the instruction manual or on JTL's website. The guide number is usually calibrated for ASA100 and you can use it to determine correct exposure. The formula is GN/distance = f-stop. So, if the GN is 160 and the distance is 10 feet, your f-stop should be set to 160/10 or f/16.0 if you are using ASA100. If you're using ASA200, close down one stop to f22.0 The guide number only applies to full power output.

Take one (and only one) light and position it so that the strobe head is 10' from your subject. Set the light to full power. Divide the guide number of the strobe by 10 and use the resulting number as your f-stop for ASA100. For ASA200, close down exactly one stop. Do not put a softbox or umbrella on the strobe. Just use the bare head and standard reflector.

Now photograph your subject. It should be well exposed. You may have some harsh shadows, but the exposure should be correct and you should have good color saturation. Start with that and see how things come out.

-Chip