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Digital to analog conversion printing question
Old 03-15-2003, 01:59 PM   #1 (permalink)
Kurt_Gearheart
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I have digital files from my last shoot that I'd like to try and sell as framed prints.

I want to have them on fiber based paper, silver, etc, NOT some fade-prone inkjet or laserjet non-sense, etc.

What is the process for converting a large JPG or TIFF into something that can be printed out on traditional photo media?

Who? Where? How much?

Thnx!!!

Images from last shoot...











 
 
try a local lab maybe
Old 03-15-2003, 02:22 PM   #2 (permalink)
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My local lab will do prints from CD if they are jpg's. Usually I will give them a 6mb jpg from a neg scan and get great 8x10's and even 11x14.

scan them as tiffs, ps them, convert them to jpgs and burn on a cd is what I do.

however I am looking for a digital lab since my 10D will be here monday
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You\'re in luck!
Old 03-15-2003, 03:56 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Kurt

Most labs have been "stuck" with equipment and expertise from the "dark ages" of film photography. In order to leverage this both Kodak and Fuji have put together processes that take the digital to analog -- and it doesn't cost you a cent!

I'm more familiar with the Fuji process. Fuji makes a system called Frontier. Some smaller labs have the 35mm Frontier machine and others have the larger medium format Frontier. Basically, they now scan any negative or take your digital file directly. Once it's digital, they "impress" it onto Fuji Chrystal Archive color paper with a drum that has something like 50,000 lasers on it. They use the lasers to expose the paper with the same colors that are on the digital file. From there, the print is processed like any color print.

The Fuji Chrystal Archive paper is rated for something like 80 - 100 years. Not quite silver, but good. I print my black and white captures from the S2 on the color paper. The S2's black and white is actually a monochromatic RGB file. Kind of like the C41 b&w color films by Ilford and Kodak.

I send in the full RGB file and I've never had any kind of color shift or "toning" from the file. I've printed images similar to the one below.

Call around -- I'm sure a lab in town has a Fuji Frontier. I send out prints to EZ Prints (www.ezprints.com). They use the similar Kodak process and I've never had a problem.

Best of luck!

Bob



Models are Kendall Hill (standing) and Hope Hoffman
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Re: Digital to analog conversion printing question
Old 03-15-2003, 06:12 PM   #4 (permalink)
Marko
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Try to find a lab that makes Chromira prints. They are actual photographic prints on RA-4 color negative paper made from scans/digital files projected onto the paper via an array of LEDs. This is, however, a color process and not a B&W process, so the look is that of a B&W neg printed on color paper, not quite the same. The LightJet process is similar. For B&W photo printing on fiber-based silver paper, the only real option is to have a lab (very often ones that would print Chromira or something similar) print out your file to a 4x5 film negative which would then be photographically printed normally.

You usually use TIFF files for these types of processes, and they need to be large enough for adequate resolution at your preferred printing size (usually 300ppi). And the images would need to be profiled to the output device. Calibrate your monitor (via hardware calibration if you can, software calibration if you can't), soft-proof in Photoshop until you're satisfied with the look of the "final" print on your monitor, convert to profile which you'll need to get from the lab, burn a CD, pay up, and pick up your print.

You might want to go small the first time just to check that your final print matches your soft proof, and then go big in subsequent efforts. A good lab should allow you a 5x7 freebie the first time to make sure you can come reasonably close in matching and that you're happy with the results.
 
 
Thanks for the responses so far. Next logical...
Old 03-15-2003, 08:11 PM   #5 (permalink)
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What's the best interpolation method/software solution?

GF? Native PS? Other?

Goal is to get a 2048x1536, 1.6 MP fine JPG file big enough to do say 10x14, or slightly bigger, at 300 DPI, sharp as possible, using the suggestions given.

I usually use PhotoImpact (great sotware BTW, although it ain't PS), and it does bilinear and bicubic, but it's probably not the best.

Suggestions?

 
 
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