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Printing From PS PPI -DPI
Old 03-24-2005, 09:50 AM   #1 (permalink)
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I understand DPI is a term for output of my printer. I always print at max resolution on finish work. When I print from PS I notice that it reads in PPI, usally 300 to 600 PPI depending on the size print. The question I'm asking is , what PPI is good for say 8 X 10's 11 X 14's and what about resampleing. I've seen in some of the forums not to resample. Any thoughs ?
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Re: Printing From PS PPI -DPI
Old 03-24-2005, 10:33 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Hope this answers your question

http://www.tildefrugal.net/photo/dpi.php
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Re: Printing From PS PPI -DPI
Old 03-24-2005, 11:21 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Dude - How did your model get square black pupils? Am I the only one that finds that distracting? It's a good shot, otherwise. As for the PPI, I have resampled 2048 x 3072 pixel images that were to be printed as inexpensive 11" x 17" posters on a 600 DPI printer to be about 6600 x 10200 pixels with good results. The link in the other post does not recommend doing this but is it better to have PS interpolate the pixels or have the printer do it when the image has to be printed in a larger size?

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Re: Printing From PS PPI -DPI
Old 03-24-2005, 11:54 AM   #4 (permalink)
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From the Epson Complete Guide to Digital Printing :

"I'm going to give you one number to remember: 300. This number will always give you the best quality from your Epson printer, regardless of the printer resolution."

Don't confuse the Image resolution with the Print Quality settings. Image resolution refers to the actual pixels in the photograph. Printer resolution refers to the way the printer puts ink down on the paper. If set that way, the printer will print the image at 1440 dpi (for example), regardless of the image resolution.

So, based on this info, a 4x6 print should be 1200 x 1800 dpi (approx 6MB TIFF file), an 8x10 print should be 2400 x 3000 dpi (21MB or so Tiff file)

If you have a photo at a higher resolution, you are wasting valuable disk space and confusing your printer when it has to decide which of the extra pixels it should discard.

Hope this helps.

Tom
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Alien Eyes in the frozen north?
Old 03-24-2005, 12:19 PM   #5 (permalink)
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[ QUOTE ]
Dude - How did your model get square black pupils?

[/ QUOTE ]

Aren't the eye surgery centers up noath of the border offering the "Alien Eyes" surgery, yet? It's very popular for models, down here, especially for those who are being lit with four flourescent fixtures mounted in a square configuration, eh?

[ QUOTE ]
Am I the only one that finds that distracting?

[/ QUOTE ]

Don't know. It doesn't bother me, as you can see:


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There are two ways to look at this. . .
Old 03-24-2005, 12:20 PM   #6 (permalink)
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If you are printing from a home printer then you want PS to do the resampling of the image and 240 to 360 ppi is about right. Some say for best results that number should be a number that will divide evenly into your output DPI. ie 1440 divided by 4 = 360 or divided by 6 = 240 but I'm not so sure the eye could tell the difference. I use 300 dpi.
If, on the other hand, you are sending the image out to a processor leave the resampling to those machines as the are far better than the resample engines in PS. The trick here is to provide as much of the original image to the processor. In other words resize the image (Image>Image size. . .) uncheck the Resample image box. Now by resetting the longest side of the image both the short side and the resolution will be resized to fit without losing pixels. If you are going to crop the image you will be cutting something from the image. Leave the resolution field blank on the crop tool menu and the remaining pixel count will be stretched (or shunk) to fit the desired size. Example: assume you have an 11 meg pixel image a 4x6 yields a 400 ppi while at 10x6.667 (keeping original ratios) it will be 240 ppi. By cropping you cut unwanted pixels redistributing the remaining pixels according to the indicated size. Confusing I know but don't worry about it too much. Just know that you are delivering as many of the original image pixels as your crop will allow. What ever the pixel size of the image will then be resampled by the processor to fit the image and resolution of that machine.

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Re: Printing From PS
Old 03-24-2005, 12:22 PM   #7 (permalink)
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PPI wise, a lot of it depends on the print size combined with assumed viewing distance. Assuming a 1/100th of an inch circle of confusion, anything above 100ppi will be perceived by the average person to be photo quality at the normal viewing distance for that size. The higher the ppi, the shorter the viewing distance and the sharper under close scrutiny. For professional portrait and wedding work, 250ppi is perfectly acceptable. This translates to:

4" x 6" print requires a minimum 1500 x 1000 image size
5" x 7" requires 1750 x 1250
8" x 12" requires 3000 x 2000
11" x 17" requires 4250 x 2750

Note that at 8x10, we have just reached the 6mp limit. That's because the 250ppi figure is conservative on the safe side, and depending on your printer and the quality of it's output, you may indeed be able to use far less ppi to make large prints. For example, the continuous tone commercial process printers by Fuji and Noritsu do wonderful 8x10s every day at the 5x7 resolution in the above chart.

My best advice? You've got a printer, right? Take an excellent image and resize it to various ppi ratios starting at 100ppi and then print 8x10s. The point at which you can see obvious degradation of the print is your lowest threshold. Above that is gravy, so to speak. I can state without reservation that I've seen outstanding 11x14s from 3mp DSLRs.

So there ya go....

David

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Re: Printing From PS PPI -DPI
Old 03-24-2005, 01:38 PM   #8 (permalink)
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The pic you are looking at was taken at a workshop by the Host of this website' Rolando Gomez. Its different I know. Itis a home made Kino light. I dont find it to be any more distracting than any other flash, just different. I could have taken it out in PS but I thought I would leave it.
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Re: Printing From PS PPI -DPI
Old 03-24-2005, 01:40 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Thanx for the link.
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Catch Light
Old 03-24-2005, 02:52 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I have never been a fan of ring lights and I have to say that I a like the square lights in these three images even less. Viewers have been getting used to seeing all kinds of things reflected in the eyes from windows, surfaces that reflect sunlight on the model, and flashes since the beginning of photography. I use an octagonal softbox rather than a rectangular one because it yields a more natural catch light. If the light was off the center it would at least leave the pupil looking round (natural). To me, the eyes are extremely important in glamour and should allow the model to appear desireable. Aliens are not desireable - but maybe I'm racist (partial to the human race):-)
 
 
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