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And yet ANOTHER film question.....*sigh*
Old 01-17-2003, 10:36 PM   #1 (permalink)
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I have been doing a lot of reading about glamour photography (living at Borders and living off of raspberry mocha frappachinos to stay awake) and I'm seeing that a large percentage of the guys writing these copious quantities of books on glamour lighting are using slide film, E100SW seems to be a VERY popular type, and I'm curious as to what yuze guyz are all using. I've shot with Kodachrome 25 and 64 for years in my stock business and found that the skin tones are great with those two and with slide film I don't have to worry about someone at the lab trying to "correct" my lighting by averaging it out and killing my desired effect. I do have a slide scanner that I traded my first-born for but making prints from slides results in loss that is not particularly pleasing. I would love the thoughts of all you pros out there who have been doing this forever. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif[/img] Thanks.

Mike
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Actually until very recently ...
Old 01-17-2003, 11:26 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Actually until very recently, color negative film was used only by amateurs and those pros who did retail work (portraits and weddings), essentially those who wanted prints as results. Everything for publication, at least all color, was shot as chromes. You ain't seen nuthin' til you've seen the quality of a 4x5 or 8x10 chrome! Essentialy everything shot for publication was shot with chromes, whether fashion or product work. In fact many if not most publications still prefer chromes. Many of us formed the habit of shooting chromes and continue to do say today.

At one point, Kodachrome was the industry standard, but improvements, during the past 10 or so years, in other chromes along with the a reduction in the locations processing Kodachrome have made Kodachrome sort of an orphan child. In fact many publicatons specified kodachrome for submissions.

I don't know why you are having problems with prints from you scans of chromes, the results should be excellent. I don't know what the "loss" in in your prints, but I would suspect something in your scanning technique. I have found I need to reduce saturation by about 25% when scanning chromes. Printed on Epson Heavyweight Matte Paper or Premiun High Contrast paper, the results are near identical to conventional prints, at normal viewing distances (arms length for an 8x10).

The attached is from an Ectachrome. Distinctive Images

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Re: Actually until very recently ...
Old 01-18-2003, 12:07 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Doug,

Thanks for clarifying that. You know, in shooting stock work for so many years I've always used chrome. I guess I will go back to chrome for my model shoots. The loss I was talking about is in the saturation of the image when made into a print from the chrome (i.e., sent to the lab to have a print made). I just got two rolls of Kodak Portra film back from a shoot last Sunday evening and personally I think they suck. None of the effects I desired came out as I had envisioned them and so I'm going to go back into the studio with the same model and reshoot them with chrome and see how that works out. My scanner is a Nikon Coolscan LS2000 and I'm not really pleased with the scan results. The pictures come out very washed out. I figure that it's probably me not having the settings right. The time involved in customizing each scan is a pain in the keester as well. I guess I need to find a scanner guru to walk me through this and see what I'm doing wrong.

I am frustrated by the fact that I'm not getting the beautiful results of so many of you in the forum and perhaps my choice of film is a contributing factor, along with my lack of experience in glamour photography. I'm sorry to say that more than 50% of my shots are what I would consider very poor. I do have a 4x5 view camera and perhaps I'll try a few shots with that as well. I'm very familiar with the quality of prints made from 4x5 negatives and chromes but have never tried it with a model before. First time for everything. I'm leaning more toward a 6x7, like the Mamiya RB67 or RZ67 for my model photography though because the 4x5 is a bit too much for my liking right now. Right now I'm just shooting a 35mm Nikon.

Once again, thanks for your great input! I look forward to learning much more from you all. This site has been a Godsend for me for learning about this genre' of photography. Take care and have a wonderful weekend!

Mike
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Re: And yet ANOTHER film question.....*sigh*
Old 01-18-2003, 12:10 AM   #4 (permalink)
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As you know from the first of the recent film questions I shot my first roll of 'chrome last week (Fuji Asteria). I really liked it! I've found an inexpensive slide scanner I will be getting in March but until then I've pulled out the old Kodak slide projector. The bumpy texture and the orangeness of the wall left something to be desired but, still cool. It was a learning experience - I've used ISO 400 for 18 months pretty exclusively so I came out a little darker than I would have liked.
I'm looking forward to ordering the Kodak E100SW next week and using it.

Cheers
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Fuji Astia...
Old 01-18-2003, 12:31 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Is the only slide film I use. I favor it's skin tone, and accuarate color rendition. Whenever I get prints from slides, I go to a custom lab,and they make a 4x5 color neg from the slide, then print the enlargement from the neg. It's a little pricey, but I get great prints. The last roll of Kodachrome I shot it was over a month before I got the slides back, so E-6 is the way to go for chromes.




Sara shot on Fuji Astia
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Re: Actually until very recently ...
Old 01-18-2003, 02:21 AM   #6 (permalink)
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While I'm in the process of going back to my 4x5, which I haven't used for about 20 years, I really don't recommend it for "model shoots". While I'm returning to it, I find that each time I click the shutter it costs me between 2 and 3 bucks for B&W. I'm returning to it for artistic purposes. I strongly recommend the RB or RZ 67 and absolutely love my RB. It's a solid work horse. needing little maintenance and because so many are available on the used market (KEH.com), prices for the bodies and accessories are reasonable. I'm down to one now, as I found they don't bounce well off of cement floors. It will also be outstanding for the chromes you shoot for stock.

A month ago they had to call the paramedics when I was given the price for one which would scan up to 4x5, so I bought a 400 buck Epson2450. It does a wonderful job, but takes about 6 minutes to scan a 35mm neg or chrome to 8x10 at 300 ppi. That's before the time needed to work it in P'shop. So if you are unhappy with your Nikon scanner, I'll be glad to make an even swap with you. I've bought cars for less than the Kool scan price!

Based on what you said, I do think your problem is in the scanning. Sounds like investing a few bucks in a guru might solve your problem. Actually, I've also found that loading the image, after corrections, into a non P'shop program can help to find flaws. I use a Mac, so the programs might be different for a PC, but I use iviewmultimedia or jpegview as a final check.
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Re: And yet ANOTHER film question.....*sigh*
Old 01-18-2003, 10:44 AM   #7 (permalink)
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I prefer Fuji Astia, Provia, Arcos (Neopan) and Kodak E100s and SW...but I'm heading to digital soon [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]
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Re: Actually until very recently ...
Old 01-18-2003, 11:00 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Hi Doug,

Yes, the Coolscans are a bit pricey and fortunately I have a paramedic that lives right next door so I just called him after I wrote the check. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]

I read several "tutorial" sites on scanning and I found basically the same information concerning the intial scan, which is to do all of the adjustments to the prescan image as possible before the actual scan. By doing so, the final "tweaking" in PS or whatever image editing software one might choose (PS 7 for me) won't be so drastic and time consuming. Actually, that makes perfect sense but I'm still not seeing those stellar results I see from others when they scan and post an image (here and elsewhere). You're right. I need to find me a guru, burn some incense and put on some Tibetan chant music, and let the guru show me the ropes. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif[/img]

My first move is to get some CHROME and start using it. I'm going to try the Fuji that someone mentioned and I'm going to try some E100SW, as per the pros in the glamour books.

Take care.

Mike
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check into one of this dudes workshops
Old 01-18-2003, 12:03 PM   #9 (permalink)
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http://www.johnpaulcaponigro.com
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Re: regarding scanner costs and scanning help...
Old 01-18-2003, 01:10 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Check into some Photoshop reading. I just bought a book last week titled "Real World Adobe Photoshop 7" by David Blatner and Bruce Fraser. It's nearly 800 pages of information regarding photographs mostly - a little bit concerns digital artwork. Topics range from acquiring scans/digital images from cameras to color management and sharpening techniques. Since I started reading this book, I've realized that there is about 100 different ways one job can be accomplished in Photoshop. Almost all of the color correction topics can be carried over to your scanning software as well.

I not trying to endorse the company in this paragraph, just relaying my experience with them and the scanner I ordered. For those concerned about high $$$ Coolscans... I was recommended to http://www.digitalfotoclub.com by a member of another photography forum to buy a scanner. They carry import and USA versions of the Nikons. I picked up my Coolscan 4000ED for $1200 with shipping charges. There is no difference in the import and it's USA counterpart other than warranty and price. A LS-IV is going for $580 at that site.

Hope this helps someone out,
-Richie
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