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WB question......
Old 01-19-2005, 02:48 PM   #1 (permalink)
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If you're shooting mid day (bright/sunny) but with the model's back to the sun or in the shade should you use the cloudy WB setting or leave it on sunny? Sorry for the cloudy/sunny terms but I can't remember the equivalent LOL.
Thanks,
SEan
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Re: WB question......
Old 01-19-2005, 04:00 PM   #2 (permalink)
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It depends on the effect you are trying to achieve. If you use "cloudy" and the model is in direct or reflected sunlight (even if he/she is backlit), you will get a slightly warm image. If you want it balanced, use "sunny" (or a custom white balance). The cooler ("bluer") the white balance, the warmer ("redder") the resulting image.

BTW, here are the predefined white balance settings (generally) from coolest to warmest. If I'm wrong someone correct me.

open shade - cloudy - flash - sunlight - tungsten (and I have no idea about flourescent, I think it adds some other color filter as well)

Hope this helps.

Herb
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Re: WB question......
Old 01-19-2005, 04:56 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Well it may depend! Different situations demand different treatment. If you are shooting digital, which I assume, then you have several options depending on the camera. If you can do a Custom White Balance, then that will often give you an optimum WB. If you can set the actual color temperature in Kelvin, then you can choose the amount of warmness you want. You can use "warm cards" to set the custom white balance and thus choose the exact amount of warmness desired.
Personally, I never use the Cloudy, sunny, etc. I either shoot RAW (and then I just leave it on AWB, though I'll even do CWB sometimes with RAW if I think AWB may be fooled - I want the shots to look reasonable on the LCD) and choose my color balance when I do RAW conversion, or I set a Kelvin setting based on my judgement of the scene.


This was shot at 5800K

Cheers,
rfs
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Re: WB question......
Old 01-19-2005, 08:15 PM   #4 (permalink)
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shoot it RAW, daylight balanced. you can fiddle and adjust when you convert.
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Re: WB question......
Old 01-20-2005, 09:59 AM   #5 (permalink)
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I haven't played with RAW much. When I did and used the AWB that seemd to be pretty accurate as well as when I set the WB myself. I just hate to depend on the camera.... but maybe that's better than myself LOL. Don't you have to set the WB for every image, one by one, when converting? Or am I missing something? I've only used the software from Canon and it seems like it is very time consuming. Is there a better program out there like Adobe's or is it all the same?
I shoot with a Canon D30 and am not sure of the Kelvin equivalent to the symbols available to choose from.... AWB, sunny, cloudy, etc. Nor do I own any warm cards yet so I don't play with a CWB yet.

So my best bet is to shoot RAW with AWB....right? Is there a way to Automate the converting then just go back and re-converte with adjustments for the ones that look off? Or do you guys convert every image itself?
Thanks for the help guys I do appreciate it.
Sean

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Re: WB question......
Old 01-20-2005, 10:44 AM   #6 (permalink)
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You don't need warm cards to do CWB. Just use any white card (there's one on the back of most gray cards) and follow the directions for your camera for doing the custom white balance.

When you shoot RAW, you have all the info that was recorded when you shot the scene, so you can choose your white balance at that point. I use Photoshop CS and it has ACR (Adobe Camera RAW) conversion plugin built right in. I usually just convert one representative sample of a group of shots in the same lighting and then use that same conversion info to automatically apply the same settings to the others. I don't convert all the shots however. I only convert the ones I plan on working with. You can use the flag command in the Browser to select those you want to convert. I just do the one conversion, then flag those I want to work with, and then do an Automate | Apply Camera RAW settings (and choose the "Previous Conversion" settings to those flagged. This is done in the built in Adobe Photoshop Browser. Then when you later decide to load one of these photos in to PS, I just click OK when it gets to the RAW converter. Although you can do any additional fast correction at that point if you want to.

By the way, most people find the Canon software to not be very good.
Cheers,
rfs
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Re: WB question......
Old 01-20-2005, 10:59 AM   #7 (permalink)
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I've got PS7 and will have to look into a RAW plugin and automating it. I stayed away from RAW because I thought I had to convert it image by image. I'll give it a try.
Thanks again for the help,
Sean
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Re: WB question......
Old 01-20-2005, 12:09 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I know you're going to hatre to hear this, but upgrade to CS. The RAW conversion capabilities are phenomenal. I shot in RAW all the time. Once you master some techniques your workflow will be greatly improved and your image quality will increase as well. The post processing capabilities are just unreal.

Mike
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Re: WB question......
Old 01-20-2005, 09:53 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Shoot in Raw and you can change it later if you are unsure, or bracket shoot.
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Re: WB question......
Old 01-21-2005, 02:03 AM   #10 (permalink)
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If you shoot RAW, then there is no need to bracket for color balance since you're getting all of the information available in the RAW file. If you try to bracket, you're going to get the same RAW information each time. Now if you mean bracketing for exposure, then that is possible, but its better to just use a black/white/gray calibration target to zero in the exact exposure.
Cheers,
rfs
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