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Cross process
Old 08-21-2004, 07:11 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Hello,
I writing to everyone out there who could give me some adive when using chrome film and then x-processing it. Me delema is that I've been trying to do exterior night shoots and everything tends to come out in hues of green. I try not too use flash to preserve the feeling of the night but I'm wondering if anyone knows how I can manipulate the colours.... I was thinking of filters but thought I'd ask before proceeding.
I appreciate all responces, thank you
Mike
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Re: Cross process
Old 08-21-2004, 09:17 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Mike

Before you try cross processing -- get some Tungsten-balanced chrome film. Kodak makes an Ektachrome 320T that can be pushed 2 stops to give you an effective ISO of 1200. Pretty good for a color film. That will even out many of your color issues.

One of the challenges with night shooting is that the light sources you find are powered by many different gasses. Mercury vapor produces different colors from fluoresent, and different from incandesent, etc. By the way -- your green is probably a mercury vapor-based light.

Best of luck

Bob

Some images from my night shoots:






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Re: Cross process
Old 08-21-2004, 11:39 AM   #3 (permalink)
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I second those suggestions Bob. When I was in school and took the color class, the instructor had us go out and take pics of people, or whatever, under different outdoor lights, and keep track of the type lights, so we could know exactly how the different lights affect color on film. We used slide film so that we could see the effect without having any color correction by the print process. That's idea #1. #2 is after you do your experimentation, find a color wheel, and select the proper filter (the color oppisite) for the type of lights you're shooting under. Good luck.

Isaiah Brink
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Re: Cross process
Old 08-22-2004, 01:07 AM   #4 (permalink)
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If you have access to a color temperature meter you can determine exactly how much warmer or colder the artifical lights are versus daylight. Then you can chose the approriate wratten filter to get the colors close to a daylight balance.

However, cross processing the film would also cause a color shift and then you're back to square one. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif[/img]

Anyway good luck.

Michael
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Re: Cross process
Old 08-22-2004, 04:02 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Some info from one of the gurus at A&I Color Lab here in LA, when I asked about where to start with cross processing a few years back. I never did much with it (I've since learned how to emulate it in Photoshop though!). Remember whatever your lights sources, and color temp of the film, the whole point is to make something that looks UNnatural, so there is no right and wrong. If you like it, that all that matters.

1) Using Kodak VPS (color neg usually rated at 160asa), shoot @ 100 ASA, snip @ +3 or +4 in E-6. Shoot with contrasty daylight or strobe. You'll get peach highlights, blue-green shadows.

2) Kodak EDP2 (slide film, usually rated at 100asa) shoot @ 50 ASA, process +2 in C-41, you'll get a cyan overall cast.

In both cases, you are increasing the contrast by over exposing, and overdeveloping. Also remember that the EDP2, a slide film, does not have the orange masking of the color neg film, and since its being processed as a negative, may need masking in order to make a conventional "C" print. The usual method to get this is to sandwich a strip of unexposed, processed color neg film which will give the enlarger a negative color mask to start from. Of course these days, if you're scanning the film, you might not need it.

As I said, I got this info a few years back. The films mentioned may no longer be manufactured by Kodak, so I'd recommend some experimentation with the closest film you can find.

Here's a little modern-day "cross-processing", via photo shop, from an old shoot with Pamela Anderson. Before & After....



Hope this helps,
Andy Pearlman
Andy Pearlman Studio
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